Stunning 2015 Burgundy -  Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Domaine William Fevre and Sylvain Cathiard 

by Simon Evans | Aug 18, 2017
The stunning Burgundies just keep on coming!
Another week, and yes, another Burgundy feature. Once again we’ve got some really special wines to offer (albeit in tiny quantities) all from the highly rated 2015 vintage. We have a small allocation of the white Burgundies from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey including Chevalier-Montrachet, the austere Chablis from Domaine William Fevre featuring  2015 Les Clos and finally from another Burgundian rock star, the wines of Sylvain Cathiard.

As our 2015 allocation of Sylvain Cathiard is so miniscule we thought we’d open up the cellar and also offer some of his wines with a bit of bottle age. These don’t come up very often so if you’re a fan of Cathiard's wines we’d suggesting getting in fast.

All wines below and the back vintage Sylvain Cathiard are available for order now at special offer prices for 7 days only and can be ordered by returning the attached order form, by email, by fax on 03 9419 6970 or by or calling us on 03 9419 6990.

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Pierre-Yves Colin described the 2015 vintage as "one where the growing season was hot enough to cause the vines to suffer at least some hydric stress. Otherwise however, there was basically no disease pressure to speak of and there really wasn't much to worry about other than praying for a little rain to give the vines a drink. The forecasters predicted a break in the heat so I risked waiting until the 1st of September and picked through to the 9th under warm but still much cooler conditions. The fruit was super-clean with thick skins and I chose to press extremely slowly to avoid extracting too much potassium. This is to say that each press run lasted from 4 to 4.5 hours. It was also clear from the beginning that the wines were going to be very rich and thus I did no lees stirring. "I also reduced the amount of new wood to 20 to 25% and used 350 L barrels." Colin noted that most wines were either bottled, or will be bottled, without fining or filtration.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound)

We believe that Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey wines are some of the most reliable White  Burgundies for cellar aging, and we highly recommend them.
2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Once again the spicy nose is dominated by notes of smoky reduction and enough wood to mention. There is even more volume to the very dense and tautly muscular yet refined imposingly scaled flavors that are blessed with buckets of dry extract that relegate the moderately firm acidity to the background on the citrusy, powerful and brilliantly persistent finish. This is most impressive and should age effortlessly.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 92-95, Tasted: Jun 11, 2017, Drink: 2025+, Issue: 67, Don't miss

2015 Meursault Premier Cru 'Les Perrieres'
Notes of smoky mineral reduction and acacia blossom lead to highly energetic and even more mineral-driven middle weight flavors that arguably possess the finest mouth feel in the entire range. The beautifully long, tightly wound and dry finish is like rolling small stone around in the mouth and this is textbook Perrières.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 91-94, Tasted: Jun 11, 2017, Drink: 2023+, Issue: 67, Sweet spot Outstanding
2015 Meursault Premier Cru 'Les Genevrieres'
Mild reduction masks the fruit but not the natural spiciness of Genevrières. The classy and sleek middle weight flavors exude a subtle minerality along with saline hints on the moderately complex and persistent finish. This is certainly pretty but doesn't appear to have the same underlying material as the best in the range.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 90-92, Tasted: Jun 11, 2017, Drink: 2020+, Issue: 67,

2015 Meursault Premier Cru 'Les Charmes'
Here the nose is carrying so much sulfur and reduction that it was essentially impossible to assess. The notably more refined medium-bodied flavors also possess plenty of sappy dry extract along with a fine sense of underlying tension, all wrapped in a markedly dry finish where a hint of wood emerges. Good stuff.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 91-93, Tasted: Jun 11, 2017, Drink: 2022+, Issue: 67, Sweet spot Outstanding

2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 'Les Chenevottes'
A well-layered nose combines notes of petrol, smoke and a nicely broad range of white orchard fruit scents. The mouth feel of the medium weight flavors is also really quite seductive thanks to the abundance of sappy dry extract that buffers well the moderately firm acid spine shaping the delicious finish that is just as persistent if perhaps not quite as complex, at least not today.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 89-92, Tasted: Jun 11, 2017, Drink: 2020+, Issue: 67

2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 'Les Baudines'
Firm reduction renders the nose impossible to assess at present. Otherwise the detailed, intense and solidly precise medium-bodied flavors also possess plenty of energy as well as evident minerality on the relatively dry, class and impressively persistent finish. Lovely juice.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 90-92, Tasted: Jun 11, 2017, Drink: 2021+, Issue: 67
2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 'Morgeot - Les Fairendes'
Here the nose is quite firmly reduced and hard to read today. On the plus side there is a slightly sleeker mouth feel to the seductively textured medium weight flavors that culminate in a saline-inflected, delicious and impressively persistent finish. Good stuff.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 90-92, Tasted: Jun 11, 2017, Drink: 2021+, Issue: 67

2015 Meursault 'Les Narvaux' V.V.
An interesting nose consists of lemon-lime, petrol and spiced apple aromas. Once again there is a really lovely texture to the caressing and sappy medium weight flavors that exhibit a subtle minerality on the mildly austere and relatively dry finish. This is a very fine Meursault villages and worth a look.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 89-91, Tasted: Jun 11, 2017, Drink: 2020+, Issue: 67, Outstanding
Domaine William Fevre
Régisseur Didier Séguier describes 2015 as a "relatively precocious growing season that saw bud break in the week of April 10th followed by an early June flowering where we experienced some shatter. June and July were extremely dry and warm yet August, while not as dry, was even hotter. Everything was coming together nicely until the night of August 31st and the morning of September 1st where certain sectors were absolutely ravaged by hail along with heavy rains. The path of the storm basically started in La Forêts, continued through Montmains and then swung into Les Clos, Blanchots and Montée de Tonnerre. Thankfully the fruit was already ripe so we could begin picking immediately and I had harvest teams in the vineyards on the morning of the 3rd. Because the fruit was so clean we could pick quickly though you had to watch the pressing constantly so that you didn't have too much potassium (and thus lower acidities). For the hailed sectors I would put our losses at around 25%, which isn't great but it could have been worse. The non-hailed parcels were near perfect and also exceptionally clean with alcohols that were in the 12 to 13.5% range and total acidities of between 4.5 and 5 grams. Fèvre has elected to bottle its entire range, including the grands crus, under the Diam cork.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound)
2015 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
A wide-ranging nose offers up notes of citrus blossom, pear, apple and a hint of hazelnut. Once again there is a lovely sense of vibrancy to the sappy and dense medium weight flavors that exhibit a subtle minerality on the slightly more complex and persistent finale. This is a bit more tightly wound and worth a look.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 89-91, Tasted: Jun 11, 2017, Drink: 2021+, Issue: 67, Outstanding Top value

2015 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
Once again there is a subtle but not invisible application of wood setting off the more elegant aromas of green fruit, citrus, floral, spice and quinine. The super-intense, delineated and vibrant middle weight plus flavors possess both good richness but also the hallmark refinement of a fine Preuses, all wrapped in a more complex and sneaky long finish. Lovely.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 92-94, Tasted: Oct 08, 2016, Drink: 2023+, Issue: 64, Don't miss

2015 Chablis Premier Cru 'Montee de Tonnerre'
The cool and restrained nose is mostly comprised by notes of mineral reduction though there are background nuances of iodine, pear and white flowers in evidence. I very much like the power and intensity to the concentrated yet refined medium weight flavors that display more evident minerality on the beautifully textured and persistent finish that is ever-so-mildly youthfully austere. This is more classically styled than most of these 2015s.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 90-93, Tasted: Oct 08, 2016, Drink: 2021+, Issue: 64, Sweet spot Outstanding

2015 Chablis Premier Cru 'Les Lys'
A notably more elegant, and airy, nose features notes of lemon rind, seaweed and shellfish hints that can also be found on the ultra-refined, pure and delineated lighter weight flavors that possess a lilting mouth feel while offering fine length on the notably dry finish. This isn't super complex but it is both lovely and very Les Lys.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 89-92, Tasted: Oct 08, 2016, Drink: 2020+, Issue: 64
Sylvain Cathiard
Sébastian Cathiard described his 2015 campaign as "about as easy as one could hope for. The growing season was reasonably straightforward to manage, yields were good despite a relatively high incidence of shot berries, the harvest went well, the fruit was super clean, the vinifications were easy and the wines are excellent. What more could one hope for? More specifically, we began picking on the 12th of September and while there was rain that day, the skins were already so thick and the fruit so clean that it was a non-factor, in fact it might actually have helped rebalance the sugars and solids somewhat. Yields were in the 42 hl/ha with potential alcohols that ranged from 12.5 to 13.5%. I did my normal vinification except for a bit more punch down than I did in say 2014 with no whole cluster inclusion. I also used a bit less new wood in a few cuvées but nothing significant.” As long-time readers know, I rarely give blanket endorsements but the Cathiard 2015s are, quite simply, among the very best wines of the entire vintage. I appreciate that is a bold statement but I was absolutely knocked out by how good the wines are, indeed the word "brilliant" comes to mind.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound)

As our allocation is so small we have limited the 2015 Sylvain Cathiard wines to one per person.
2015 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru 'En Orveaux'
An exuberantly expressive nose exhibits lovely purity on the spicy essence of red cherry, plum, violet and again a hint of sandalwood. The sleek and silky flavors possess a remarkably seductive and refined mouthfeel, all while delivering marvelous persistence. This is an exceptionally classy effort of refinement and grace.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 92-94, Tasted: Jan 15, 2017, Drink: 2027+, Issue: 65, Sweet spot Outstanding
2015 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 'Les Clos de l'Orme'
A perfumed, airy and elegant nose features the essence of red cherry, floral and soft spice-scented aromas. The lilting and wonderfully refined flavors dance across the middle weight flavors that terminate in a complex, balanced and dusty finale where a hint of bitter cherry arises. This beautiful effort is textbook Chambolle and highly recommended.
- Allen Meadows (Burghound) Score: 89-92, Tasted: Jan 15, 2017, Drink: 2022+, Issue: 65, Outstanding Top value

Sylvain Cathiard Museum Wines
The full list of available back vintage wines can be found on the order form HERE
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