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Ghislaine Barthod and Mark Haisma - New release Burgundy

by Simon Evans | Sep 28, 2017
Ghislaine Barthod and Mark Haisma
The Burgundy Just Keeps on Coming!


 
This week we offer some stunning Burgundies from two very different producers. We have the sublime but elusive wines of Ghislaine Barthod (in tiny volumes) and some really tasty offerings from a lesser known negociant Mark Haisma.
 
The following wines are available now at our special offer prices for the next 7 days only. To place your order return the attached form, by email, by fax on 03 9419 6970 or by or calling us on 03 9419 6990.
Ghislaine Barthod
"Ghislaine Barthod has fully arrived at the top of her game and she is undoubtedly one of the finest vigneronnes in the entire Côte…If classically styled ultra pure and understated Chambolle floats your burgundy boat, then the Barthod wines should be on your very short list… they really are that good."
Allen Meadows, Burghound

There’s nothing we could write that sums it up better than the above from the Burghound himself. Our allocations of this superstar Domaine are sadly tiny so if you are interested get in quickly or you’ll miss out.

 
2014 Bourgogne Rouge
$75
In 2014 this remains an excellent value. It comes from a 1.5 hectare parcel of 50+ year old vines in the renowned Les Bons Bâtons vineyard in Gilly-les-Cîteaux (on the edge of Chambolle). With terrific energy and drive, this wine could easily pass for a very handy village-level Chambolle in a blind tasting. Only 10% new oak here. Can easily hold for at least five more years (and will probably be better for it!).
Bibendum (Importer)

Outstanding Top Value. A beautifully fresh nose offers up pretty and layered aromas of both red and dark pinot fruit that evidences an appealing top note of floral elements. There is good volume and nice detail to the delicious and saline-inflected flavors that terminate in a mildly austere finale. Barthod consistently fashions one of the best examples of the genre and this would be a good choice for a house red to pick up by the case.
86-89 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 51

 
2014 Chambolle-Musigny
$150
The Barthod villages is a blend of 13 different parcels (totaling just 1.5 hectares) including old vines from Aux Croix and Les Herbues and a 0.07 hectare micro parcel in the 1er cru Les Sentiers that is too small to vinify separately. 20% new oak for this cuvée (Barthod’s barrel selection includes Allier, Tronçais and a little Vosges from François Frères and Raymond). One of Chambolle’s finest villages wines. 
Bibendum (Importer)

A more elegant though not necessarily more complex nose is composed by notes of red currant and the same floral elements. The middle weight flavors though are notably more refined with a lovely intensity and minerality that continues onto the well-delineated, vibrant and once again mildly austere finish where a hint of bitter cherry arises.
89-91 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 61

 
2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Aux Combottes'
$245
Roumier and Barthod are the major players in this small 1er cru that lies in the heart of Chambolle, just east of the village, between the 1er crus of Les Chatelots and Aux Beaux Bruns. Like Chatelots and Charmes, Aux Combottes is situated on the silt-rich alluvial fan of the Combe de Chambolle, and is therefore a more accessible wine when young than the more structured wines produced by Barthod in the crus to the north of the village. This was looking considerably more open-knit and velvety when we tasted it in the cellars, with textural black cherry fruit playing the lead role alongside hints of herbs and spice. Striking focus from start to finish. 
Bibendum (Importer)

A wonderfully fresh, cool and ultra-pure nose that is the essence of red pinot fruit and rose petal. The vibrant, refined and beautifully detailed medium weight flavors possess a caressing mouth feel, all wrapped in a lingering finish that dances across the palate. This isn't as complex or classy as the best here but it's certainly very pretty.
89-92 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 61

 
2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Véroilles'
$250
Les Véroilles is the highest and coolest 1er cru vineyard in Chambolle, sitting above Les Bonnes Mares. Only a small part of this vineyard is 1er cru (which was upgraded to premier cru-status in 1987) and Ghislaine Barthod owns this entire parcel (all 0.37 hectares of it). Hence it is a monopole. Some of the vines here sit on bare rock which explains the incredible minerality of this wine, no matter the vintage. The altitude and proximity to the forest result in a wildly aromatic, juicy and structured wine that in 2014 offers cool, orange zest, forest fruits and floral complexity and a filigree of elegance, bright mineral freshness and powdery tannins in the mouth. The vines here now average 50 years old.
Bibendum (Importer)

Sweet Spot Outstanding. In what is a consistent theme with the Barthod 2014s the aromatic profile is quite cool and airy with a nose that closely resembles that of the Fuées but with even more floral influences and perhaps a bit less spice. As is often the case with this wine it is youthfully restrained and backward with a pungent minerality adding lift to the almost painfully intense flavors that culminate in a racy, refreshing and moderately austere finale. In the same vein as the Fuées this will definitely require extended bottle age before being ready for prime time.
91-94 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 61
 
2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Baudes'
$265
Les Baudes (3.42 hectares) sits just below the grand cru Les Bonnes Mares, but has slightly richer and rockier red soil. It’s typically the most muscular wine produced by Barthod, often requiring the most time in the cellar. Considered by commentators to be the most ‘Morey’ of her wines, I actually think it is the most Bonnes Mares. With just 0.19 hectares under vine, it’s also one of Barthod’s rarest wines. The vines are now over 45 years of age.
Bibendum (Importer)

Outstanding. The more deeply pitched nose is also attractively fresh, ripe and relatively elegant offers up notes of dark cherry, plum and violets. The dense, sappy and delicious middle weight flavors are supported by firm tannins and excellent mid-palate concentration, all wrapped in a serious, austere and impressively persistent finish. This is textbook Baudes and clearly built-to-age.
90-93 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 61 
 
The grapes here come from two old vine parcels, situated just below Bonnes Mares, with red soils and some rocks. Deceptively drinkable right now, it has plenty of acidity and underlying structure underneath the floral, raspberry and red cherry fruit. Fine and juicy.
95 points, Tim Atkin MW, 2014 Burgundy Report

 
2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Cras'
$270
The thin, rocky topsoil and high altitude of the Les Cras site make it one of the most mineral wines of the commune, while the sunbathed, south facing exposure ensures full ripeness and depth of fruit. These two elements come together to make this one of the finest 1er cru vineyards of Chambolle. Barthod has a 0.86 hectare parcel from which she fashions one of her greatest wines. She rightly compares Les Cras, in its intensity and minerality, to the grand cru Bonnes Mares, of which it is the natural extension, lying on the same slope, just a little further south. Barthod’s vines average almost 60 years of age. Les Cras, at this address, is always a special brew with the intense perfume lift of Les Véroilles, the wild fruits and spice of the Les Fuées, the earthiness of the Beaux Bruns and the structural depth of Les Baudes! Ghislaine’s parcel of Cras is on soil that is mostly white and shallow (it’s just 30cm before the vine roots hit the rock) compared to the soils that get deeper and have more red as one moves north in the vineyard, toward the Fuées. The notes below describe the wine well. Our advice? Look, but don’t touch for at least five years or more. But we could say that for every Barthod wine! Patience required!
Bibendum (Importer)

Sweet Spot Outstanding. A broad-ranging, fresh and once again airy nose reluctantly reveals notes of cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, rose petal and soft spice and sandalwood nuances. The strikingly elegant and refined medium-bodied flavors seem to be built on a base of minerality before terminating in a wonderfully intense, saline and focused finale that delivers flat out stunning length. This moderately austere effort is very clearly built-to-age and it would be completely pointless to open a bottle before at least a decade has passed.
91-94 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 61
 
The soils here are particularly poor and limestone-white, producing one of the most backward wines at the domaine, which often needs at least five years in bottle. Rose petal aromas segue into a wine that’s taut and crunchy on the palate with cherrystone fruit and mineral sap.
96 points, Tim Atkin MW, 2014 Burgundy Report

 
2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Charmes'
$285
Les Charmes is essentially a continuation of Les Amoureuses, which should be enough said. Charmes again highlights the complex idiosyncrasy of the Burgundian terroir. Although on the lower-lying slope, the soil here is very thin and stony, with the bedrock just 50-60cm below the surface. This results in a wine of high-toned minerality and intense perfume, thanks to the chalky bedrock, and yet voluptuous texture thanks to the location on the slope. Ghislaine Barthod blends from two micro-climates within the vineyard; one very rocky parcel next to Les Amoureuses and the other from a deeper soil profile next to Les Chatelots. Sadly these two old vine parcels (70 years old) only make up a tiny 0.25 of a hectare. Much like Amoureuses, the finest young Charmes is always a wine of glowing perfume and wonderfully hedonistic texture. Again, enough said….
Bibendum (Importer)

Outstanding. Here too the expressive nose is elegant, pure, airy and quite cool with its layered combination of pomegranate, red and black cherry, violet, lavender and spice elements. The equally pure medium-bodied flavors possess a generous yet delicate mouth feel yet there is plenty of punch to the lacy and well-balanced finale. Like the Baudes, this is textbook Charmes.
91-93 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 53


2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Fuées'
$285
From 70 year old vines. Les Fuées is a great 4.38 hectare terroir that is sandwiched between Les Cras to the south and Les Bonnes Mares to the north. The finest examples are wonderfully expressive and textural Chambolle, full of wild fruit and floral perfumes, and, with time, forest floor/autumnal and exotic spice notes. Barthod farms 0.25 of a hectare of vines, well-sited on the midslope where the underlying rock is similar to that of Bonnes Mares. 
Bibendum (Importer)

Sweet Spot Outstanding. This is slightly riper with a very spicy black currant, orange peel and floral-suffused nose. There is strikingly good delineation to the nicely rich, cool and palate staining medium-bodied flavors that are blessed with sophisticated though markedly firm tannins on the mineral-driven, balanced, velvety and stunningly long finish. This is quite simply terrific.
92-94 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 61

 
2014 Ghislaine Barthod Mixed 6 Pack
$1,045 (Save 5%)
A mixed 6 pack of these incredibly limited wines from Ghislaine Barthod includes:
2x 2014 Bourgogne Rouge 'Les Bons Bâtons'
1x 2014 Chambolle-Musigny
1x 2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Cras'
1x 2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Charmes'
1x 2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Fuées'
Mark Haisma
Mark Haisma is a very talented micro-negociant in Burgundy. Formerly of Yarra Yering fame, Mark has resided and worked in Burgundy since 2009. He is fast becoming one of Burgundy's sought after makers, due to his wonderful wines and also as a consequence of the glowing reviews his wines are receiving from some of the world's most respected critics.
 
"He seems to have struck gold. His wines have an excellent balance between fruit, expression and refreshment without being in any way wimpish. The wines are also, appetisingly, bone dry. There is none of the sometimes slightly gratuitous sweetness to be found in some Pinots, especially New World ones." 
Jancis Robinson

 
2015 Saint Romain
$95
This is a blend from two lieu-dit vineyards- Le Jarron and Combe Bazin.  The former imparting the steel and citrus and the latter some texture and body.  From vines up to 45 years of age, in 2015 there's fruit aplenty but there's also drive and focus.
Rody Hall (Importer)
 
White peach, hazelnuts, white flowers and chamomile, a little spice and struck match. Fleshy and almost a honey nut cream flavour, but tight and citrus laden too, with a distinct flinty texture taking over, and a floral finish of fine length and precision. Grip and flesh. Gee, it’s great to drink already, though no hurry, of course. - drink 2017- 2025
Gary Walsh - The Wine Front, Tip Top Tipple 94 Points

A combination of the two vineyards from last year. ‘It seemed really to deliver the best of both in one wine. Ooh, nice! A very faint oak padding but with a fine citrus. Layers, weight, a slow burn of acidity – really an understated acidity, but a growing mineral dimension to the finishing flavour. Super length too.
Bill Nanson

 
2015 Volnay Paux Bois
$145
Paux Bois is a lieu-dit vineyard in Volnay, the soil is calcareous as opposed to clay - and the wine speaks more of Pommard than Volnay perhaps.
Rody Hall (Importer)
 
Super wine this. Has a bright and crunchy freshness, cranberry juice flavour and acidity, in amongst redcurrant and raspberry, a pleasing perfume, a crack of spice, and grainy, almost stony tannin that drives it along beautifully, and a long gently herbal finish. It’s lit! And brightly too. Love this wine. Has a transparency that charms thoroughly - Drink 2018-2032.
Gary Walsh, The Wine Front - Tip Top Tipple 94+ Points

Drink 2020-2028 - Makes four barrels. From vineyards up near the woods, so different from the previous Volnay. First time he's ever used 10% whole bunch. Lively and fresh.  Racy and bracing. Big and crunchy.  Lovely stuff - very transparent.
Jancis Robinson 17/20
 
 
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin
$145
A blend of fruit from Croix de Champs and Le Justice lieu-dit vineyards - it's red fruited with real drive and focus.
Rody Hall (Importer)
 
Strawberry, raspberry and spice, a little aniseed and perfume, sweet stalk and herb discreetly in the background. It’s light and finely wrought, but does not lack flavour and impact, delicate lacy acidity and a gentle feathering of tannin, fresh strawberries dusted with spice, subtle earthiness, and a cool fresh finish of fine length, lightly chalky tannin teasing it out. It’s a textbook example of delivering a knockout punch, without coming over all heavy. Onya Mark - Drink 2020-2035.
Gary Walsh, The Wine Front 94 Points

40 whole bunch, with some new wood. Good structure, with a savoury spicy edge to the sweet cherry and raspberry fruit. Dense and a bit grippy but has lovely sweat fruit profile and nice weight.
Jamie Goode, 92-94 Points

 
2015 Pommard 1er Cru 'Clos des Arvelets'
$205
Red fruits, a little earthiness and spice, dried flowers. Bright and sappy, red fruits, grainy tannin with a slight orange peel and amaro flavour, lovely juiciness and firm but fair slatey tannin on a blood orange finish of convincing length. Charismatic - Drink 2020-2035.
Gary Walsh, The Wine Front - 94 Points
 
Only 20% whole cluster 350 l barrel, 50% new. Almost a stricter aroma – some flowers and engaging structure – this is very inviting. Supple, floral flavours and very modest tannin – and no obvious oak. Modest intensity in the finish yet long finishing. Very tasty wine indeed.
Bill Nanson

Aromatic and quite floral. Fresh cherries and raspberries. Very attractive with nice density and subtle sappy notes. Lovely structure here with sweet fruit and perfume.
Jamie Goode, 92-94 Points

 
2015 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru 'Les Chaffots'
$230
Oh this is a creamy and spicy thing, with plenty of ripe cherry, vanilla, floral perfume and that sexy forest floor decay stuff, that Pinot Noir types like to bang on about. Fleshy, ripe red fruit, earth and clove spice, really sensual and juicy, with a bear skin rug of tannin, and a Barry White tune playing suggestively in the background, ooooo yeah, and then a fat roll of tannin on a long creamy cherry finish. It’s all that. And a little something extra. Drink 2019-2035+
Gary Walsh, The Wine Front 95+ Points
 
The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru Les Chaffots includes 75% whole bunch, offer one of the best aromatics from Mark Haisma this year, with a ebullient red and black, wilted rose petals with a touche of orange rind. The palata is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, very well balanced with a touch of spice and black pepper towards the crips finish.  I like this, I like this a lot.
Neal Martin, 91-93 Points - Drink 2018-2040

Just South of Monts Luisants, high up above the village, early maturing and East facing. 75% whole bunch.  A bit of new oak. Not that expressive on the nose today. Sinewy and obviously masses of character. Raciness and finesse. Light and refined.
Jancis Robinson, 17/20 drink 2025-2035
The above wines are available now at our special offer prices for the next 7 days only. To place your order return the attached form, by email, by fax on 03 9419 6970 or by or calling us on 03 9419 6990.
MW Wines 125 Cambridge Street, Collingwood, VIC 3066
T +61 3 9419 6990 F +61 3 9419 6970
www.mwwines.com.au

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