Benoit Moreau has quickly established himself as one of the most compelling names in contemporary white Burgundy. After more than two decades working the family vineyards at Domaine Bernard Moreau, he took his share of the holdings in 2020 and began bottling under his own name. The domaine may be new; the experience is not.
Moreau has farmed biodynamically since 2013 and continues to work the same parcels he has known intimately for over 20 years. The most meaningful change is in the cellar and on the label: sites once blended away are now bottled separately. Parcels such as Les Fairendes and La Cardeuse, formerly components of Morgeot, are released as individual wines. Their higher elevation, limestone-rich soils and thinner profiles yield more precise, mineral expressions of Chassagne than the deeper, lower-lying sections of Morgeot. Think less about reinvention and more about finally letting the vineyards speak in their own voices.
In the cellar, decisions are guided by the character of each site and the shape of each vintage, rather than by a rigid set of rules. Crushing, solids and extraction are adjusted as needed, and all wines now see 18 months in wood, lending additional depth without sacrificing clarity.
The 2023s are particularly strong: layered, mineral and assured, underscoring a domaine built on continuity rather than reinvention, with results that feel newly defined and more transparent in their expression of site.