Francois Mikulski was not supposed to be a Meursault winemaker. The son of a Polish resistance officer, he grew up in Luxembourg, spent a harvest in California before arriving in Burgundy, tempted by his uncle Pierre Boillot's vines. He founded the domaine in 1992 with no family name to protect and no received wisdom about how things should be done. Thirty years on, that freedom still shows up in the glass: precise, mineral and serious, but with a warmth and generosity that makes them irresistible.
The domaine runs to just under nine hectares, nearly all of it in Meursault and its close neighbours. Mikulski farms organically without making a fuss about it, guided by the lunar calendar for his major operations. Some of the Aligote vines his grandfather planted in 1929 are still in production. In the cellar, new oak is kept low and the wines are fined before bottling, a step he considers essential to the precision and longevity he is after. The approach is unhurried and consistent, and the wines reflect it.
The 2023 vintage is a generous one, and Mikulski's range shows it across both colours. The whites are rich and expressive while keeping the line and minerality that has always been the house signature, from the entry-level Aligote through to the premiers crus. The reds reward equal attention. Mikulski brings the same care to his Pinot Noir, and the results are quietly impressive. We were able to secure only one or two bottles of each cuvee, so the range is offered as it arrived: in very small numbers, across the full hierarchy.
One of the best addresses in Meursault.
The 2023s are here, but will not be available for long.