Henri Germain makes white Burgundy of rare purity and drive, rich but always lively, the kind of Meursault that rewards patience in the cellar. The wines are the work of Jean-Francois Germain, the founder's son, a quiet and unassuming figure who has spent decades refining the domaine his father established on these hillsides in 1973, now joined by his daughter Lucie. Little about the approach has changed: organic farming, low yields, indigenous ferments, and two winters in barrel on the lees in cold cellars where the wines are left to take their time. There is no batonnage, no rushing, nothing done for the sake of it. The result is Meursault with real structural bones beneath the flesh, built to be kept.
The 2023s show the style at its best. It was a warm, fast-ripening year, but the domaine took it in its stride: a nine-day harvest from early September, good yields across both colours, the same hands-off cellar work as ever, just 15 to 20% new oak. The wines kept the freshness and drive that define the house, even in a warm year. The Charmes, Perrieres and Poruzots are all superb, while the Chevalieres is the standout for value. For lovers of pure, energetic white Burgundy, there are few better addresses, and few harder to get hold of.
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