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2021 Domaine Nicole Lamarche

by Hugh French | Jul 13, 2024

 

2021 Domaine Nicole Lamarche

“Lamarche is now a top domaine, with wines which express themselves through their subtlety rather than their power. Since 1999, and more especially since 2005, the quality has been top-notch..."
Clive Coates MW

 

 

“I’m sorta kinda lovin’ what's going on at François Lamarche at the moment… Nowadays, they are fashioning just the kind of Pinot Noir that I adore: unforced, natural, elegant and very terroir expressive. Nicole has that “touch” of harnessing the essence of Pinot Noir, letting the wines articulate their terroir with seemingly effortless ease, a sense of transparency that is wondrous to behold.”
Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate

The resurrection of Domaine Nicole Lamarche continues to gather momentum to the extent that this once decidedly old-school Domaine, widely considered to be underperforming relative to its terroir, is now considered in the upper tiers of all Burgundy producers. With an enviable portfolio of brilliant terroirs, the jewel in the crown being the monopole La Grand Rue, wedged between Romanee-Conti, La Romanee and La Tache, and constant evolution in the vineyards, the Domaine is now producing energetic, elegant wines that perfectly encapsulate their underlying terroir.

A family Domaine for six generations, Nicole Lamarche completed her studies in oenology and rejoined her father at the Domaine in the early 2000s, ultimately taking control of operations in 2006. Since taking full control, Nicole set about improving all aspects of operations. Vineyard practice was changed to organic cultivation with some biodynamic principles. La Grand Rue is now being ploughed by horse. The barrel suppliers were changed with the Domaine now using low impact Stockinger oak, with a lower proportion of new wood (20-30% for Premier Crus and 30-40% for the Grand Crus depending on the vintage), and the equipment in the winery was updated to modern standards, including a gravity fed cuverie and new cooling equipment.

The wines now being produced by the Domaine are a world apart from those it produced 20 years ago and Nicole renamed the Domaine in her own name in 2018 to appropriately reflect these changes. Their wines are now among the top wines being produced in Burgundy and are still very fairly priced, relative to their peers.

But it is not all good news. For years Nicole worked closely with her cousin Natalie, with both having an ownership interest in the vines. Unfortunately, Natalie decided to take her share of vines out of the Domaine, so there have been changes to the make-up of the terroirs from the 2022 vintage onwards. There is no longer any Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru ‘Croix Rameau’, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru ‘Malconsorts’ or Grands Echezeaux. These had to be ceded to retain the monopole La Grand Rue. Nicole has been hard at work to add more terroirs to the portfolio from 2022, so look out for these in the future.

All wines below are available now. To place your order simply click on the links below, by email, or call us on 03 9419 6990.

 

 

 

2021 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain
Extremely Limited - $51

"This is an exciting addition to our allocation range, not least because we see so few Passetoutgrains these days. It’s a style of wine that’s almost extinct. Lamarche’s version is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Gamay from a 0.43-hectare parcel of vines across the RN74 from the village of Vosne-Romanée. The fruit co-fermented in tank and open wooden fermenters, spending about 15 days on skins. The wine aged for 14 months in the domaine’s oldest barrels. A bright, juicy bargain that will surely disappear in a heartbeat."
Importer Notes, Bibendum

 

2021 Bourgogne Rouge
Extremely Limited - $69

"Lamarche’s Bourgogne is sourced from 0.98 hectares of vines spread out below the main road. The average age of the vines is 40+ years, which, along with Nicole Lamarche’s respectful winemaking, results in a lovely, pure, raspberry-scented Pinot that transcends the appellation."
Importer Notes, Bibendum

 

2021 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits Rouge
Extremely Limited - $77

"Lamarche holds 1.5 hectares in the Hautes Côtes, tucked up in the hills above Vosne in the hamlet of Concœur. This parcel was planted on limestone-rich soils in 1979 and faces due east. The wine is a deliciously red-fruited, racy example with just a lick of oak—outstanding value again."
Importer Notes, Bibendum

 

2021 Nuits-St-Georges
Extremely Limited - $159

"Nicole made tiny amounts of two négoce wines in 2021. The Nuits-Saint-Georges comes from organic vines in Les Herbues and Aux Tuyaux, just off the D974 before you enter Vosne. The soils are rich in clay, and the vines are 40 years old. Roughly one-third of the cuvée was raised in Lamarche’s bespoke amphora. An artist in Italy makes these beautifully decorated vessels. For Nicole, the wine possesses the identity of Nuits but with the finesse of Vosne."
Importer Notes, Bibendum

 

2021 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 'Les Suchots'
Extremely Limited - $314

"Notes of dark pinot fruit, spice and exotic tea display a mentholated top note. The supple, delicious and appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors are supported by relatively fine-grained tannins on the sneaky long finale that is notably more firmly structured."
90-92 Points
Allen Meadows, Burghound

 

 

2021 Echezeaux Grand Cru
Extremely Limited - $439

"Pale even by Nicole's famously light ruby standard, the nose is a bit shy. The palate is vigorously savory, however, and offers refreshing, crunchy red fruits – especially pomegranates and raspberries – and perky rhubarb. Sassy tang and refined tannins fold into the solid, mineral-streaked finish."
95 Points
Christy Canterbury, Timatkin.com

"A little more depth of cherry red colour here and a delicate but charming bouquet. Builds to the back, a little smokiness and a touch of pepper, a gracious and quite delicate Echezeaux of middling intensity but some length."
92-94 Points
Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

 

2021 Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
Extremely Limited - $899

"Strawberry and crunchy raspberries are laced with warm spices. The gently nippy tannins and invigorating acidity create an energetic call-and-response on the palate. For all its exuberance, it still carries the graceful signature of the domaine. This could use some time."
95 Points
Christy Canterbury, Timatkin.com

 

2021 La Grande Rue Grand Cru Monopole
Extremely Limited - $1,949

"This presents a whirl of heady aromas on the nose: tea leaves, tobacco, rose petals, red plum preserves and blood orange. The tannins are wispy and lightly dusty, the succulence is alluring and the acidity is mouthwatering. Nicole says it's never worth "checking" on a bottle of La Grande Rue before five years. I'd give it at least that long!"
96 Points
Christy Canterbury, Timatkin.com

"The usual lighter colour but with a delicious nose, slightly riper strawberries. Here there is notably greater density on the palate, with still the right acidity behind. Tannins are integrated, the red fruit remains fully present across the palate, and delivers good length. Little orange blossom notes as ever, and considerable persistence. Fine if less intense than certain years."
93-95 Points
Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

 

 

All wines above are available now. To place your order simply click on the links below, by email, or call us on 03 9419 6990.

 

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MW Wines 125 Cambridge Street, Collingwood, VIC 3066
T +61 3 9419 6990 F +61 3 9419 6970
www.mwwines.com.au

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