"This is the only one among the 2021 Kabinetten that is already bottled. 30-year-old vines from Kirchspiel and Abtserde (too young for the Grosse Gewächse wines). The exact origin varies by vintage. This is the Kabinett counterpart to the dry Von der Fels. RS 45 g/l.
Intense aroma of sweet herbs, fresh flowers and green fruits. Exotic fruits and even wild strawberries. According to Keller, such aromas are lost if the fruit ripens quickly. Yet this is stony/mineral too, the aroma of just-crushed stones. As it warms up, there is a hint of ginger and sweet spice. Scented on the palate as on the nose. Thanks to the crunchy acidity, the sweetness seems almost to disappear on the finish, giving an intense citrus impression. There’s an electric tension to this mouth-watering wine. It is hard to put it into words but the acidity feels dry. Perfect balance is a mark of the 2021 Kabinetten."
17/20 Points
Julia Harding, jancisrobinson.com