Very Clare, very classical riesling by Jeff Grosset, whose delicate apple/lime juice/bathpowder aromas precede a long, sumptuous and steely palate whose bracingly austere finish wraps up the wine in taut, trim fashion. There's fruit concentration aplenty, with an aristocratic length and attitude, before a clean, punctuated finish of bracingly crystalline acidity. (19.0/96, Drink 2009-2013+) Jeremy Oliver